WHAT RACERS SAY
How to run a 100%COOL Engine
A few words on water
Measuring coolant temperature and fans
Use a proven high flow coolant pump
With years of experience supplying 100%Cool waterless coolants and systems for race and fast road vehicles, Classic, Vintage, and now high powered diesel trucks we have put together some suggestions you may want to consider when designing or modifying your cooling system.
A proper cooling system on a modern or classic car engine is a critical science that every owner needs to get to understand. The result of even the most basic engine modification is designed to produce more horse power but a lot of stock cooling systems are pretty near the edge already and the latest tweek can take the cooling past the tipping point.
Engines prefer to run on the cool side and it is beneficial for maximum horse power to keep them in the mid 70’s C where ever possible. But race engines will often see 100 or beyond in the heat of battle. We are confident that even at temperatures beyond 100c your engine can run very well and efficiently without critical failure using 100%cool waterless coolant. After all metal is not going to melt at 120 degrees is it! But you can’t do this with a water based coolant running at realistic operating pressures ( we’ll ignore what F1 does at 150 psi)
The use of a 100%Cool waterless engine coolant alone is not going to solve design faults, but it will help you get around the problem and save your engine from failure but to get the best out of your cooling system we like to get the following points right first.
It is possible when running 100%Cool waterless coolant to run a much smaller radiator that is efficiently designed in preference to a stock model this will reduce weight, every ltr of coolant weighs approximately 1kg.. It is also possible to reduce drag when choosing radiator position. Stalling air through the radiator by adjusting the radiator angle is also a worthwhile experiment. I say experiment because you may be short on space and you will need to move it within the confines of the car. Also there is no point ramming air through the radiator into a confined engine department with little room for the hot air to escape, you may have to consider bonnet louvers or vents and gurney flaps to increase the air flow out of the engine compartment.
Big gains are to be had from selecting the correct radiator type ( surface area), coolant and air flow.
We are talking performance engines here and we need a coolant that is going to perform 100% all of the time way past boiling point. My other reservation about water is its corrosion properties, sure anti corrosion technology can be added OAT and HOAT you know the red or green stuff. But the addition of water is the weak link in the corrosion process. Enough said.
Contrary to popular belief, slowing the coolant through the radiator does not improve heat dissipation! This is a widely held myth that is completely contrary to the laws of heat conduction physics. The higher the flow, the more heat will get carried and displaced. The use of high flow pumps is a major step up.
The pulley size will need to be looked as well ideally you would want to run as near to 1:1 as possible when using 100%cool waterless coolant. But depending on the revs pulled you may want to under or overdrive your pump gearing. Using a correct impellor vane designed for pumping without cavitation along with ceramic bearings will pay huge dividends. Provision for an air bleed will also need to be made air is not a good coolant and can wreck a pump.
When using electric pumps the original pump will have to be modified so that the electric pump can run continuously, we have seen electric pumps cool a winning car at the Le Man 24 hour so we know they work and reliably. The disadvantage of electric pumps is that they will pump at a given speed and flow rate all the time, you are not able to throttle the coolant with the engine revs. This makes it very important that you know the required flow rate of coolant for your engine using a flow rate calculation; we can provide this for customers. In some cases (V engines) you may find that you need to run two pumps, one for each cylinder bank when using an electric system. Slave pumps are also available to help with the coolant flow back from the radiator. All of this requires power from a battery/alternator so think carefully before ditching the mechanical pump
Because 100%cool will not boil within an engine it does not have to be put under any pressure to cool efficiently, we recommend a 4-7lb cap just to keep the fluid within the system but on vintage cars running an open pressurless cooling system the product cools efficiently at zero pressure, these old cars running on water alone dump the water every time the car stops when hot due to heat sink.
The use of a low pressure cap will be better for the hoses and gaskets, but only possible in a high performance engine when you use 100%cool waterless coolant.
Rolling road tuning is never a waste of money.
Always choose a high quality electric fan, how much air does it move cfm (cubic foot per minute) what are its continuous watts or amperage.
We recommend and use Samco/type silicone hoses.we can also supply a Classic looking wound hose in silicone as well, beware of some cheap blue silicone hoses that do not have sufficient wall support.